Some time ago, my mum sent me a gift box set of mixed spices that were supposed to be used for African meals. There was an Algerian tagine spice mix, a Morrocan vegetable stew mix, and an Ethiopian berbere spice mix that, for some reason, I decided from the get go I wanted to save to serve with goat. Now, I'd never eaten goat when I got the gift and at that time all I knew of Ethiopia was that my brother used to threaten to mail our sister to Adis Ababa, which is the capital city. Skip ahead a few years, and I have been introduced to a great little hole-in-the-wall Jamaican place that does a curried goat with rice and peas that was worth waiting for, and I have reconnected with a friend from high school. What makes that pertinent is that about 2 years ago, she and her husband adopted a little boy and a little girl from Ethiopia. Not only are these two utterly adorable, the stories she tells about her kids either makes me giggle-snort laughing or shake my head at the never-ending and too often overlooked wisdom of children.
One of the stories she shared was that while in the grocery store line up, her son was staring at all the glossy magazines on display. I think he was maybe 8 or 9 at the time, right about when the front cover of a Cosmo might start to look interesting, when he looks up at her and says "Mum, it is so sad that all those ladies in the magazines are so skinny; they must come from countries without enough food for the people. I will pray for them." Talk about out of the mouthes of babes. It got me to thinking though; here is a little boy who grew up (at least for a time) in an orphanage in a country that so many simply assume is constantly starving and has (by dint of Not Being North American) not much to offer. Wow is that wrong. Ethiopia is widely considered to be from whence Homo sapiens first set out towards the middle east; it is widely believed that the Queen of Sheba of biblical and Solomon fame was in fact Ethiopian, and that the original Ark of the Covenant is to be found there today; they have an incedibly rich cultural history with art and learning playing majour roles, and from what I've read, the people are warm, friendly and take care of each other before worrying about themselves. I hope that I'm not doing the country or its people a disservice by skipping anything of majour import, though I'm sure I am, yet I hope they will forgive me in my enthousiasm to get to the food!
Okay, so 2 things about Ethiopian food right off the bat: 1) if you don't like onions, this is not going to be your thing (I think more than a dozen onions sacrificed their lives so we could feast yesterday), and 2) it is anything but bland! As a matter of fact, if you like bland, this is not going to be your thing either. I believe the word I am looking for is "Spicy" (my friend suggested that I make one particular dish hot enough to make Satan cry, and while I took some pity, I'm sure he whimpered). But did I mention tasty???
As previously mentioned, for some reason I decided that my first foray into Ethiopian food needed to include goat. About 2 weeks ago, I happened to take a closer look at some of the meats available at one of my favourite butchers at the Jean Talon Market (
Boucherie Prince Noir) and guess what I found?! Excellent, so now I had to figure out what to do with it. One jubilant and probably ridiculous email to my friend later, and I now have 10 recipes in my possession, and fankly, I actually only used half of them! Good thing too: this was a very labour intensive meal.
This photo was taken after I had already done one set of dishes, and I probably spent a good 6 hours in the kitchen. First thing on the list was to boil up some eggs. The eggs went into the goat stew at the very end, but boiling the eggs first allowed me to feel like I was getting something accomplished while drinking my coffee. After that, I actually made up a dish called Ayib, which is really just a home made soft cheese for everyone else.
(Note: if you can eat dairy, do this! You'll need it later to help cut the heat. I simply used a vegan sour cream instead.) For some reason, this didn't actually work so well for me. Amazingly, I couldn't get it to curdle, go figure. Eventually it worked, but I'm glad we didn't need much.
From there, we went on to make up Nit'ir Kibbeh, which is an Ethiopian spiced butter that is used in most of their dishes and Oh. My. Goodness!!! This stuff is amazing!!! We liked it so much (the flavours are phenomenal) that not only did we decide to make up more just to have on hand, but we were loathe to throw out the spices we had used to infuse the butter (and when I say butter here, I mean Earth Balance) so we kept them with the intentions of baking up a squash to be used in a chickpea and collards soup sometime in the near future. I really wish we had made more the day of; it is really that good.
Next up was putting together the Shiro powder for the Shiro Wat. I should probably back track a little here and explain that a Wat is the name for whatever stew or curry you are cooking up. That might be a bit simplistic, but I mean no offense. Shiro powder, essentially dried and ground chickpeas, lentils and fava beans, when combined with onions, nit'ir kibbeh or oil and spices, is a staple in Ethiopian cooking. My friend suggested that we find some in an import shop, but since we couldn't find any, we made up some of our own. Turned out to be ridiculously simple, and we now have a nice supply set away for future use. (We used this
recipe for the Shiro powder.) After that, we realized that I had underestimated how much berbere spice mix I had versus how much we would need, so we put together some of that too. Now I got to start cooking. !
First up was the goat stew. I actually, after a bit of reserach, simply took the recipe for Doro Wat, a chicken stew that is also the national dish, and substituted the goat me. This calls for about 6 cups of red onions and a cup of nit'ir kibbeh, plus about a half a cup of berbere spice mix, and once the spice mix hit the oil I got a hint of what we were in for! Pungent and rich and oh my were some of the first things to cross my mind. Toss in the meat, which has been sitting in acidulated water for maybe half an hour, add enough water to cover and that was about all I had to do there except for stir occastionally. The peeled eggs get tossed in right at the end, about 10 minutes before serving, and while it might seem odd, they actually complement the dish beautifully.
From here on, all the recipes are, since we don't use butter but Earth Balance, vegan. Bonus. The Shiro (chickpea) Wat was a joke to make in terms of simplicity, as was the Red Lentil (Mesir) Wat. The only sort of fussy dish was the sauteed kale (we were supposed to use collards but couldn't find any) and the pancakes I made to go with. Traditionally, all of this ought to be served on a pancake-like bread called injera, which is apparently a pain in the butt to make (they suggest leaving the batter on the counter for up to 3 days!) and my husband and our friends who came for dinner don't like it anyways. It uses teff flour and apparenlty has a bit of a weird, sour after taste to it. But as the different stews are supposed to be served on top of the injera which is then torn to small pieces and used to scoop up the meal, I decided we needed something to compensate. I quickly made up a batch of thin, chickpea pancakes which worked really well if I do say so myself!
This was by far and away one of our better experiments! The food was soooo good, can be modified very easily to accomodate a dairy free diet and not One of the recipes I used called for anything with gluten in it to begin with. With all the different wats to choose from, feeding vegetarians and vegans is a snap, and if you have any spice lovers in your circle, this will make them smile while they sweat! One of our guests brought over a mango sorbet as well as a coconut, ginger and lime sorbet which were amazing in their own right, and finished the meal off spectacularly. Next time probably won't be so spicy, but I'm a wimp and the left overs seem to be even spicier.
I totally recommend giving all of these a try, but for now enjoy the nit'ir kibbeh and original doro wat recipes!
Nit’ir Kibbeh (Spiced Butter)
1 lb unsalted butter
½ medium red onion, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
One 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp cardamom seeds
1 tsp dried oregano
½ tsp ground turmeric
8 basil leaves
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat, stirring frequently. As foam rises to the top, skim and discard. Continue cooking, without letting the butter brown, until no more foam appears. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cumin, cardamom, oregano, turmeric and basil, and continue cooking for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove from heat and let stand until the spices settle. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve before using.
Refrigerate in a tightly covered container up to 3 weeks. (Makes 1 ½ cups)
Doro Wat
10 boneless skinless chicken thighs
1/3 cup lime juice
6 cups red onions, chopped
½ to ¾ c. berbere
½ c. water
1 cup spiced butter
¼ tsp. black pepper 1 T chopped garlic
1 T grated ginger
salt to taste (needs quite a bit)
6 hard boiled eggs
Soak the chicken in a bowl with lime juice and enough water to cover. Brown the onions in a pan without grease. (This is key to both the dark brown colour and the right flavour.) Add spiced butter. Add berbere and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water and all spices and blend well. Simmer for 5 minutes.
Drain and rinse chicken. Add chicken and enough water to cover and cook on low heat for at least an hour.
At this point you can transfer the doro wat to a crock pot and let it simmer on low for a few more hours. This is handy if you are making more dishes as it frees up another element on the stove. If you continue to simmer it on the stove instead, you may need to add a little more water. Add the eggs about 10 minutes before serving.
Notes: Traditionally, this should be made with bone-in chicken. But it’s easier to eat with boneless – especially if you are serving to people who are not familiar with Ethiopian food. If you use the boneless thighs and cook it long enough, they do not need to be cut up – the meat will separate nicely in the stew.